Press: 1993-1994

Media portrayal of fashion designer Ly Dumas.

Jardin des Modes

Jardin des Modes, April 1993, an article signed by the editorial board and titled “Africa Corps” showed that:

Divided, torn and bloodless, Africa has never reigned so violently as today and has never shone a brighter light on the fashion, the times, the desires, and the dreams of Europe. African drawings with their abstract symbols. African colours like the browns of the earth, the black of the shadows, the magical indigo, and the white mesmerize the shop windows. After the art, the sculptures, and the masks, it’s the turn of African textiles and clothing to demand attention and occupy the front stage. Their desire to assert themselves is not identifiable, they are tough because they are fluid and impossible to catalogue. It happens that the French or other Westerners are inspired by their dynamism and cook their mixture from fabrics bought at the market and souvenir photos. Africans decided today to take charge of the westernization of their textiles. In Paris, Cameroon-born Ly Dumas has been discovering, importing and collecting the most iconic traditional textiles, for years. At the same time, she supports the weavers whose art is at each instant threatened with extinction and has designed some exquisite garments. At the origin of her vocation lies the memory of an ancestor weaver – a craft reserved to men. In Paris, Ly Dumas, married to a Frenchman, mother of four, former yoga teacher and porcelain painter, designs strict dresses or skirts, cut low enough to respect the integrity and the Africanity of their fabrics.

L'Express

Its April 20th–May 5th issue featured an article signed by Annick Colonna–Cesari and titled “Les étoffes bigarrées du continent noir ont de belles légendes à nous conter. Ecoutons les… avec les yeux.”/”The colourful fabrics of the black continent have beautiful legends to tell. Let’s listen to them… with our eyes.”

The French first discovered Africa through art, its masks, sculptures and artists like Picasso, Braque, and Klee. Today, it is the fashion designers who familiarise them with primitivist aesthetics. A question of time as today the indigo-dyed fabrics, the cinnamon stoles with stylized figures, the mud-stained bogolan dresses run the pages of women’s magazines… Africa is losing its traditions. But paradoxically, hope is reborn in our latitudes. And the ethnologist pays tribute to Ly Dumas, a Cameroonian designer who works with the African weavers. Before imagining in Paris some gorgeous clothes in the colours of the savannah. Who would think of calling it a crime of exoticism?

The Los Angeles Sentinel

The Los Angeles Sentinel, in its April 28th, 1994 issue Malaika Brown noted in the Lifestyle column:

African designer Ly Dumas’s couture line is fit for a queen. Literally. “For use of these royal fabrics, I had to get permission from the King.” Ly Dumas explained, fingering a calf-length tunic in indigo blur splashed with white freestyle patterns. The material, a natural tick linen cloth that takes weeks to die using an intricate variation of the tie-dye method, is the royal cloth of Cameroon.

Also :

Dumas is adamant about wanting her line to revive the ancient textile arts of Africa. The UCLA graduate who went on to study at the Sorbonne in Paris said all the changes that have occurred in Africa have overshadowed the inherent talent of the people.

The Los Angeles Times

The Los Angeles Times , July 17th, 1994, Mary Lou Loper titled “The attitude is Cameroon“.

Cameroon’s K.L.D. in its full splendour was presented at two Rodeo’s Rotunda last week to commemorate World Cup, 1994. Paris-based Cameroonian designer Ly Dumas showed evening fashions whose colours arrive through the mixing of materials and fibres in the earthy elements of her motherland. The fabric’s raw materials were cultivated and hewed traditionally, then rendered into timeless artistic wearability. Taffetas, raw and pure linen were donned by 15 models, four of whom flew in from Paris for the fashion extravaganza.

Amina Magazin

In the first 1994 issue of Amina Magazin appears the article “La nuit du souvenir”/”The night of remembrance” which featured a splendid rabal and taffeta dress by Ly Dumas.